A deck’s capacity to function as an outdoor living space and an extra room for your home makes it a significant investment. A deck can be attached to the home and arranged to fit around existing trees or the perimeter of a swimming pool. If the ground slopes away from the house, the posts can be lengthened to bring the deck up to the same level as the interior floor. If the trees are sturdy and healthy, there is no need to clear the land or cut them down.
Shade and cover can be provided by trees left as part of the deck’s design. Often, a tree isn’t planned for, and a cover must be constructed over the deck instead. In this situation, the posts supporting the awning or pergola above the deck should be set to their maximum height. The deck posts can then double as support for the pergola’s ceiling. Make sure the deck and the pergola roof can be supported by the posts by consulting a span table.
Raising or lowering the deck to the desired height requires a string line and either a laser or automatic (dumpy) level. Adjust the finished deck height so that it is flush with the inside floor of the home or to your preferred height. Make sure the house is perfectly straight and level by marking it and measuring it. The bearer’s base should be measured and marked. Case in point:
Decking Board, 20mm Thick
160mm joist
a bear with a 140mm barrel
In this case, you need to remark the wall 300 mm below where the final deck floor level was marked. The size of your deck and the type of timber you’ll require will dictate its measurement. To get right to the top of the bearer, subtract 160mm from this mark. In any case, you may now begin adjusting the height of your bearers and posts. Bearer spacing should be determined by the size and span of your deck, which may be found in span tables.
Class 1 hardwood, the most expensive option, has the best aesthetic value and extended lifespan. Both of these woods are suitable for usage below ground, but I recommend hot-dipped galvanized strips for below-ground applications and lumber for above-ground applications.
Joists above ground can be made from either class 1 or 2 hardwood or H3-treated pine. Since most joists will be hidden from view, using treated pine or hardwood will not affect the deck’s aesthetics.
The nicest-looking and longest-lasting decking timber is hardwood. Instead of staining the wood, treat it with a water- or oil-based decking sealant. Although treated pine can be stained or painted to get the required color, the finished product rarely compares favorably to hardwood’s rich, natural tones. However, treated pine is a viable and more cost-effective hardwood alternative.
Use only stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized fasteners.
Three hundred sixteen stainless fittings are a need if your deck is located near the water.
A fence of at least 1-meter height is required for any decks with a more than 600 mm floor height.
Sturdy steps that allow one to pass another on both sides are a must.
Consult the group before beginning.
Have a detailed plan and precise drawings ready to go.
Leave room for the trees to expand if you’re constructing near them.
Ensure you’re using the right-sized timber and that the deck is built to last.
Written by Renovation Robot’s Steven Robinson
If you want to learn more and watch repairs in action, check out the Renovation Robot website. If you’re interested, please visit: —-> http://www.renovationrobot.com.au/decks/deckbuilding.html.
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